Indonesian Digital News Archive

It looks like predictions of the end of the fall season in the Himalaya are proving to be true. This past weekend there were summit bids scheduled on several mountains across the area despite the fact that the jet stream had begun to settle in at the higher altitudes. But those summit attempts were stalled out, at least on Makalu, due to high winds.

One of the climbers who saw her climb brought to an abrupt end was Billi Bierling. She had been on Makalu for the past six week and expected to top out last week until her Sherpa team put Camp 4 in the wrong place. Billi and the rest of her squad had hoped to rest up and give it one more go this past weekend, setting out for the summit on Friday with the hopes of topping out today. Unfortunately they only made it as high as Camp 2 before returning to Base Camp due to the high winds on the upper slopes. The weather forecasts didn't look promising for the days ahead, so the expedition was cancelled and the climbers started for home. After 10+ hour trek to Yangle Kharka yesterday and a brief helicopter ride to this morning, Billi is already back in Kathmandu and promising more information on her experience soon.

Commercial guide service Alpenglow Expeditions posted a dispatch explaining the situation on Makalu as well. They note that they decided to pull the plug on their climb due to the dire forecasts which show no break in the winds for the next two weeks and beyond that it is impossible to tell. Sitting and waiting for two weeks without knowing what lies beyond simply wasn't an option, so they pulled up camp, collected their gear and hit the trail for home. The dispatch hints at more than a little frustration with the situation but such is the experience when climbing in the Himalaya, where the weather is always unpredictable and even more so at this time of the year.

There is also late season news from Manaslu, where EpicTV reports that amidst the tragedy of the avalanche, and the triumph of the summits that followed, one success story was over looked. Last week, German skier Benedikt Bohm became the first person to successfully climb and make a ski descent of the mountain without the use of supplemental oxygen. More impressively, he also made the climber from Base Camp to the summit and back in under 24 hours. Bohm is part of the Dynafit ski team, which also played an instrumental role in helping aid the survivors of the avalanche. Strong members of that team were amongst the first on site in Camp 3 when word of the accident reached the other teams. This is a tremendous achievement on the part of Benedikt and congratulations are certainly in order.

The other two mountains that were expecting summit attempts this past weekend were Everest and Lhotse. I haven't seen any updates on the progress of the teams on those two mountains yet, but it is likely that the jet stream may have prevented them from going up as well. We'll just have to wait for dispatches from Nepal to get word on their success.

Over the past six weeks or so, we've been following the fall Himalayan climbing season quite closely, watching as various teams attempt to summit Makalu, Dhaulagiri and of course Manaslu. But it seems there may have been a few teams flying under the radar and ExWeb now reports that there may be summit bids brewing on Everest and Lhotse as well.

According to this story, posted late yesterday, there is a large Korean team, consisting of ten members, who are attempting Everest along the South Col route. Perhaps more intriguing, ExWeb also says that there is a lone Japanese climber who hopes to summit along the seldom visited West Ridge as well. Those teams haven't been alone in Base Camp this fall however, as the report also indicates that there is a seven member Polish team, along with another two-person team, that are attempting to climb Lhotse. As many of you know, Everest and Lhtose share the same face, only diverging at Camp 4 where climbers go their separate ways.

Apparently this has been a relatively fast climb. ExWeb says that the Ice Doctors didn't have the route through the Khumbu Ice Fall finished until September 19 and the teams have worked with limited Sherpa support. Some of then even built their own high camps in preparation for the summit bids. The Polish squad as reportedly been as high as Camp 4 this past weekend and are now preparing to make their summit attempt ahead of the shift in the jet stream.

The weather forecasts say that the jet stream has already settled in over the region, but there will be a lull in wind speeds around the 8th. That means that any teams left in the Himalaya who hope to top out this fall need to get underway now with the hope that they can finish their climbs on Monday. Among those who are making a last minute attempt is Billi Bierling, who thought her chances of summiting Makalu were over after her Sherpa team put their Camp 4 in the wrong place. Billi left BC this morning with an eye on topping out early next week.

Stay tuned for more updates when we get them. It seems we have one more potentially busy weekend in the Himalaya before the season comes to an abrupt end next week.

While I've already done one climbing update from the Himalaya this morning, I thought that this story deserved its own post. Over the past few weeks one of the climbers I've been following closely is journalist Billi Bierling who has built herself an impressive high altitude resume over the past few years. Billi has been focused on scaling Makalu this fall and probably should have summited this past weekend, but she is currently back in Base Camp and hoping she'll get another crack at the mountain, after her Sherpa team miscalculated the route and made Camp 4 in the wrong place. Now, with the jet stream predicted to shift within a matter of days, it's possible that the team won't have a chance to climb the world's fifth tallest mountain after all.

In a report posted earlier today, Billi says that none of the Sherpas on the expedition have ever been on the 8481 meter (27,825 ft) Makalu before, but they had studied the route on maps and photographs. Last Monday, after spending several weeks acclimatizing on the mountain, Billi and her team set off from BC amidst good weather and high hopes. Their plan was to spend a single night in each of the first two camps and two nights at C3 to help prepare them for the summit push. While there, the Sherpa team proceed higher up the hill to establish Camp 4.

Only they didn't proceed up the correct route and they ended up placing the team in a spot that could not be easily or safely traversed to the proper route. That meant the squad would have to descend back down the mountain to find the correct approach, but after expending so much energy just to get to that point on the mountain, there bodies were too tired to do that.

The team leaders made the decision to have everyone return to Base Camp, which is where they are now as they attempt to collect their strength. They hope to rest up and try to give the climb another go, this time along the proper route. But as I mentioned above, the forecast says that the jet stream is now scheduled to shift on October 4 – Thursday of this week – and when it does it will settle directly over the mountain. That means the summit will be closed for the season and it will be time to pack up and return home.

All is not lost however, as the forecasts have been known to be wrong before and there is a possibility that the shift won't take place until sometime next week. Billi and the rest of the team are hoping that means they'll get one more weather window before the fall season ends, and with that in mind, they are preparing for second summit attempt around October 7 or 8.

For now, they sit, rest and wait to see what develops.

After a long and difficult week, it seems the climbers on Manaslu have begun to put the tragedy behind them and are now focused on an impending weather window that should give them access to the summit. As a result, most of the teams that are still on the mountain are now on the move, with an eye on topping out early next week.

Earlier today the Mountain Professionals team checked in from Camp 2 on Manaslu where they report stable weather and snow conditions. They started their ascent yesterday and pushed past C1 and straight on to Camp 2. Their Sherpa support team plan on shuttling gear to Camp 4 tomorrow and the climbers are now planning on summiting on Monday, weather permitting.

The Altitude Junkies have started their summit push as well, leaving for Camp 1 yesterday afternoon. They'll spend successive nights in each of the high camps before making their bid on Monday too. AJ leader Phil Crampton reports that he is still feeling a bit sore after getting caught in the avalanche at Camp 2 last weekend, so he'll take an extra day or two in Base Camp before proceeding up to join the rest of the team. The climbers are said to be in good spirits and ready to go. Hopefully their patience will pay off in a few days time.

Edita Nichols is one of the climbers who has started the ascent. She left BC yesterday and is eyeing a summit attempt on either Monday or Tuesday of next week. She says that the weather is looking good and the mountain is more stable, giving the remaining climbers there an incentive to reach the top to honor those that lost their live in the tragic accident this past weekend. Edita herself lost her SPOT Tracker in the avalanche, so she'll be out of contact for the next few days and we won't even be able to see her progress. We'll just have to wait for word of her success, but either way she plans on summiting and then heading for home by the end of next week.



On a different note, the IMG team that was on Manaslu left the mountain yesterday and are now all back in Kathmandu safe and sound. I'm sure it was a difficult decision to pull the plug on the expedition, but considering everything that has occurred there this week, it was probably the right choice for this squad. Also abandoning his summit bid is Greg Hill, who had hoped to make a no-oxygen ski descent of the mountain. He'll remain behind to support some other climbers, but he has reportedly elected to give up his own Manaslu aspirations.

Elsewhere in the region, other teams are preparing for their summit bids as well. ExWeb is reporting that teams on Makalu are now in position to top out on that mountain as early as today. That could mean that climber/journalist Billi Bierling is amongst them. We haven't had any updates from Billi since last week, but presumably she'll be on her way up soon too.

Stay tuned for summit updates over the next few days. Good luck to all the climbers. Be safe!

It has been a long and difficult week in the Himalaya where climbers are still dealing with the devastating news from Manaslu this past weekend. But there is a sense of normalcy returning to the mountain and with it comes a renewed focus on climbing the mountain. Tomorrow some of the climbers will begin their summit bid, while others have decided to call it quits and head home.

The Altitude Junkies had three team members depart Base Camp yesterday and today they report that two more will now join them. They'll all descend to the village of Sama Goan where they'll catch a lift by helicopter back to Kathmandu. While sad to see their friends leave, the rest of the team has plenty of work to do. They'll start their summit bid tomorrow by climbing up to Camp 1 with an eye on topping out on Sunday or Monday of next week.

Also heading up is Edita Nichols, who reports that Sherpa teams have already visited Camp 1 and 2 to evaluate stability on the mountain. Her team won't move forward until the Sherpas say it is safe to do, but they anticipate starting the climb in the next day or two as well.

One of the squads that has decided to leave Base Camp and return home is the IMG team. Following a meeting with the entire crew, the experienced leaders of the expedition elected to pull the plug in no small part due to the continued instability on the slopes. They sent their Sherpas up the mountain this morning to collect their gear in Camp 1 and 2 with a plan to depart BC this afternoon. They should be resting comfortably in Sama Goan now and will fly back to Kathmandu tomorrow.



Skier Greg Hill has posted his account of the tragic events from earlier in the week, which you can read here. He was one of the climbers who was in Camp 3 when the avalanche hit, preparing to move up to Camp 4 before proceeding on to the summit. He was hoping to make a no-oxygen ski descent of Manaslu and now feels that it is simply pure luck that he is alive. Greg doesn't indicate if he'll continue his attempt or if he will now head home. I guess we'll just have to wait and see.

Elsewhere in the Himalaya, far away from the tragedy on Manaslu, other teams are continuing with their expedition. There hasn't been any word from Billi Bierling in a week, although reports are that teams have moved up to Camp 3 on Makalu and may be preparing for their first summit bids. Similarly, ExWeb reported yesterday that 73-year old Carlos Soria was making progress on Dhaulagiri, having established Camp 2 and working on building C3 as well. We should hopefully have good news from those mountains soon as well.

Good luck to all the climbers planning summit attempts across the region in the days ahead. Be safe out there.

The weather has improved across the Himalaya and teams are now taking advantage of the shift in conditions to return to their normal acclimatization schedule. It looks like Manaslu in particular will be especially busy this weekend as the climbers who have been stuck in Base Camp for the past week finally get a chance to stretch their legs.

The Mountain Professionals didn't waste any time in starting their first rotation. With the storm over they moved up to Camp 1 yesterday and report that the entire team is feeling good and strong. They also indicated that the ropes aren't completely fixed to the summit yet, so there is still some work to be done before they can go to the top. This is the team's first rotation however, so they're remaining patient and keeping an eye on what is to come in the days ahead.

The IMG team went on a hike yesterday to "get the cobwebs worked out." They're planning on climbing up to Camp 1 today and then on to C2 tomorrow. If conditions are good, they'll then proceed on to Camp 3 on Sunday before returning to BC to rest and plot their next move. If all goes according to plan and they're feeling healthy, they'll start planning their summit bids sometime next week. Similarly, the Altitude Junkies were assessing the safety of the snow and hoped to follow a similar schedule. If they feel everything is secure, they'll move up to C1 today and on to C2 tomorrow as well.



Over on Makalu, Billi Bierling checks in with an update as well. She reports that the weather conditions are much better on that mountain and she and her team have just completed a rotation up to 7400 meters (24,278 ft). The Sherpas are still fixing the lines to the summit there as well, but in the meantime Billi and her companions are headed back to BC today, where they expect to find more teams arriving at last. They'll spend the next few days resting, watching the forecasts and deciding on their next move. No one is talking summit dates just yet, but it seems they're edging closer to the big day.

Now that things are settled across the region and it appears the monsoon has moved out for another year, we can expect plenty of movement on all the hills in the days ahead. There is still plenty of time before the really cold weather arrives and these teams are all on track to summit before that becomes and issue.

Update: After posting my original report, I also received news on the whereabouts of the Moguls to Manaslu team. The boys are in Camp 2 today and digging their tents out from under a meter of snow and they hope to continue up to Camp 3 tomorrow, where they're told there is over two meters of fresh powder. That means they have a lot of work ahead of them just getting their campsite back in order. They do hope to push for the summit within the next few days but considering the heavy snow and lack of fixed ropes, that may be tough going. For now, we'll just have to wait to see how their plans evolve.

Patience is the word of the day in the Himalaya, where teams on Manaslu have had their progress halted due to poor weather hitting the region. At the end of last week the forecasts looked like they were about to take a turn for the worse, and now there are liberal amounts of snow falling on mountain.

One of the teams that was eager to get started following their Puja ceremony last week was the Mountain Professionals squad. They did manage to make one trek up to Camp 1 at 5600 meters (18,372 ft) before the snow started to fall, but for the past three days they've been stuck in Base Camp with the rest of the teams, waiting for an opportunity to head back up. In the meantime, they're wiling away the hours with a mean game of Yatzy, while the storm continues outside their tents.

Similarly the IMG team is in BC as well and the fresh snow is putting a crimp in their plans too. The climbers returned from Camp 2 last Friday and had hoped to start their next acclimatization round yesterday, but judging from the reports of ongoing snow, it seems likely that they are holding out for a break in the weather while resting in Base Camp as well. Their next trip up the  mountain should take them as high as C3, with over nights in both Camps 1 and 2. After that, they'll be looking for a summit a window.

For their part, the Altitude Junkies are not concerned much with the current weather conditions on Manaslu. They make this climb every year and report that it is not unusual to have up to ten days worth of rain and snow following their arrival in Base Camp. This is a transition period in the weather as the monsoon exits the region for another year and their forecasts indicate that the current conditions will likely persist for a few more days. So like the rest of the teams they sit and wait for their opportunity to continue to the higher camps.



One of the climbers who is blogging about her experience in the Himalaya this fall is Edita Nichols. She reports on her blog last Friday was the hardest day of the expedition too date was when her team made their first hike up to Camp 1 to drop off loads of gear. She reports that there are numerous crevasses on the mountain, which can make progress slow and a bit unnerving, but otherwise the first acclimatization rotation was a successful one. Just like everyone else, she was expecting the turn in the weather and should now be in BC waiting and watching for the shift in the season.

Finally, we news from Makalu today where Billi Bierling reports in from Base Camp on that mountain. Billi says that she and her teammates have tagged Camp 2 already and that everything is proceeding as planned. They're resting after their first rotation and since weather conditions are good there, they'll be making their next trip up in a few days. That will include a night at Camp 1 and two nights at Camp 2, while they establish C3 for the work ahead.

Curiously, Billi also says that her team established its Base Camp about two hours below the normal Makalu BC. She says that it is cleaner and quieter there, but it adds a lot of extra time and effort to reach C1 on their initial go up the mountain. She also notes that so far her squad is the only one in BC as none of the other teams have shown up yet. Hopefully they'll be arriving soon as it sounds like conditions are good this season.

Thats all for now. We'll get more news later in the week, provided the weather on Manaslu improves.

Last week when I posted about the emerging 2012 fall season in the Himalaya it was to report that most of the teams were arriving in Kathmandu and making their way out their respective Base Camps across the region. Now, a week later, several of those teams have not only established their BC but have started the process of acclimatization and building their high camps as well.

The Mountain Professional squad has spent the past few days acclimatizing in Sama Gaon, a small village in the shadow of Manaslu. They plan on heading up to BC today where they'll spend the next few days getting settled before going higher. Modern base camps are much more comfortable than in the in past, with many climbers bringing a number of tech toys with them to keep them connected and in communication back home. As a result, one of the first things that they'll do is set up the solar panels to help power all of their electronic gear as well as establish their lights and communications equipment too.

Meanwhile, the IMG team has been on the mountain since last week and even had their Puja ceremony on Thursday. That traditional blessing allows them to begin their climb up the mountain, which they did yesterday by making the first trek up to Camp 1, located at 5700 meters (19,695 ft). After spending last night at that altitude, they'll now continue up to Camp 2 today (6400m/20,992 ft) before returning to BC for a rest. The logistics team reports that the Sherpas have stocked both camps with gear and that more than 600 meters of rope have been fixed leading up to Camp 1 and an additional 600 meters to Camp 2. They also report that the route is in good condition early on in the season.

Over on Makalu, Billi Bierling reports that her squad has arrived in Advanced Base Camp at 5400 meters (17,716 ft) yesterday. On the entire trek to the mountain Billi has noted that there is a distinct lack of trekkers and climbers in the region this so far this year and ABC is no exception. As of yesterday they were the only squad on the mountain.

Finally, 73-year old Carlos Soria doesn't appear to be slowing down one bit. He had intended to climb Kangchenjunga this fall, which is the third highest mountain on the planet at 8586 meters (28,168 ft). Due to the continued closure of the Tibetan border however, he has instead turned his attention on Dhaulagiri (8167m/26,795 ft). Carlos is expected to arrive in Base Camp today and will begin climbing the mountain later this week. The Spaniard hopes to become the oldest person to summit all 14 of the 8000 meter peaks. Good luck Carlos!

Last week I mentioned that we were on the verge of the start of the 2012 fall climbing season in the Himalaya and linked to a couple of expeditions that were ready to get underway. Since then more climbers have been arriving in Kathmandu and have set out for their respective Base Camps. It seems it is shaping up to be a relatively busy season, by fall standards, in the mountains.

One peak that won't be busy this autumn is Cho Oyu. The Adventure Consultants had planned to lead a team to the 8201 meter (26,906 ft) mountain but China has extended their closure of the border, forcing climbers to go elsewhere. As a result, the AC squad is now headed to Manaslu (8156m/26,759 ft). That expedition got started on Sunday with the group assembling in Kathmandu and they'll first take a helicopter to the village of Sama Gaon where they'll make some acclimatization hikes before proceeding to Base Camp.

Also on her way to Manaslu is Billi Bierling who is making the trek on foot. That journey started last week but a dispatch over the weekend says that they expect to reach BC tomorrow. The weather reportedly remains very hot at this point and Billi says that there are few trekkers on the trail, making for a quiet hike to the mountain. The temperatures should begin to drop in the days ahead, but for now it seems the team will be very working in hot conditions.

Manaslu will be a busy place this fall as the Mountain Professionals team, IMG squad and others are also en route to Base Camp this week.

Other climbers that are currently planning fall Himalaya expeditions include Sophie Denis who, according to ExWeb, has set her sights on the 8013 meter (26,289 ft) Shisha Pangma. Mexican climbers Yuri Contreras and Laura González are taking aim at Makalu (8481m/27,825 ft) and 73 year old Carlos Soria will be taking on Kangchenjunga (8586m/28,169 ft).

More updates as we have them. For now, most of the teams are still in transition, but the actual climbs should start as early as the weekend.

We've barely just put the Pakistan summer climbing season behind us, and had a chance to catch our breath, but now it's time to start ramping up for the fall season in the Himalaya. While much smaller than the spring season, and not so centered on Everest, autumn can be a great time to be in the Himalaya. The lack of crowds and the changing weather patterns make it a great alternative to the spring and many climbers use the next few months as a warm-up for Everest or other peaks next year.

One of the teams that is now starting to gather in Kathmandu is the Mountain Professionals Manaslu expedition. According to the team's blog the climbers will all be in Nepal by Friday, August 31 and they'll spend the first few days sight seeing, getting to know one another and holding meetings before they depart for Base Camp. They'll start their trek to BC sometime next week and they should be on the mountain around the 10th of September, give or take a few days.

The team's objective will be the 8156 meter (26,759 ft) Manaslu, the eighth tallest mountain on the planet. Located in the central Himalaya, it was first climbed back in 1956, just a few years after Everest. It is considered a good peak for climbers to hone their skills on and prepare for other, more challenging mountains. I'm sure that some of the Mountain Professional squad have Everest as a future objective.

Mountaineer/Journalist Bili Bierling is preparing for her next climb as well. She'll be heading out to Makalu starting tomorrow and begin an 8 day trek to Base Camp on that 8481 meter (27,825 ft) mountain. She is part of an international team, led by Kobler & Partner,  that has set its sights on the fifth highest mountain in the world.

This should just be the start of team reports and expect to have a few other mountains and climbers added to these updates soon. It seems most of the groups are still just arriving or getting organized in Kathmandu and over the next week or so we should have a clearer picture of how many teams will be in the Himalaya this fall and what their objectives will be.