Indonesian Digital News Archive

Yesterday turned out to be a historic day on K2, a notoriously difficult mountain and the second highest peak in the world. I reported early on that Tunc Findik and his climbing mates had topped out and were safely back in Camp 4, but with the weather window wide open there was hope for success out of other teams as well. In the end, a least 23 climbers stood on the summit, the most ever for a single day, putting a triumphant exclamation point on a Pakistani climbing season that has been difficult to say the least.

Late in the day yesterday I received news via email that the climbers who summited not only included Tunc, Azim and Fabrice as previously reported, but also a contingent of 16 Nepalese Sherpas led by Chhang Dawa Sherpa who claimed his 12th 8000-meter peak. Dawa relayed the news of the team's success to Nazir Sabir, who works with Pakistan's Expeditions Office and is handling the group while they are the country. At the time most of the climbers had already safely descended back to Camp 4 and were preparing to come down to Base Camp today. Dawa said that there were three other climbers on the summit as well, but their identities were not given at the time. (Big thanks to Clyde Soles for passing along this information, which he received directly from Nazir Sabir himself.)

Meanwhile, there is news of further summit success on K2 today as Peter Hamor and Pavel Bem are now confirmed to have topped out as well. In a brief statement on Peter's website we're told that the duo reached the top at 11:15 AM local time and arrived safely back at Camp 4 a few hours later. The men completed the climb without the use of supplemental oxygen and are now resting before continuing their descent. Congratulations to Peter and Pavel on accomplishing their mission too.



Staying on K2 for a moment, Al Hancock posted an update on his progress yesterday as well and while he wasn't amongst the climbers topping out just yet, he and his teammates have been making steady progress. They've managed to shuttle gear up to Camp 2 and have now returned to BC for a rest before heading back up the mountain to supply Camp 3 and 4. If the weather holds, they could begin their summit push in the next few days. Al reports that he was very happy to see the sun and have the weather turn in their favor. After spending several weeks on Broad Peak he never really got the opportunity to make a true summit attempt on that mountain thanks to heavy snows and high winds. Hopefully the weather on K2 will hold out long enough for the squad to take a crack at the summit.

Speaking of Broad Peak, there was news of successful summits from that mountain yesterday as well. ExWeb reports that the Iranian team of Reza and Sohbatollah Bahadorani were able to finally complete their climb and Nazir Sabir says Chinese climbers Ms. Wang Jing and her partner Mr. Zhang Liang also summited with the assistance of their two Sherpa Guides.

In the same report mentioned above, ExWeb says that a team of Andalucia climbers have also managed to summit Gasherbrum II, another peak that had turned back all previous attempts this season. No details on that climb were given however so we'll have to wait to see if we learn more.

It appears that patience has payed off for the teams that were able to stay in Pakistan and wait for the weather to turn in their favor. Most of the climbers have headed for home but the few that had open travel plans were able to stay and take advantage of the shift in conditions. How long this current window will stay open remains to be seen, but it is great to see these dedicated men and women finally getting their opportunity.

Congratulations to all of the teams on their fantastic success. Please be careful on those descents and get down safely.

The climbing season in Pakistan had seen a definite shift this past week as teams on Gasherbrum I and II, as well as Broad Peak, have elected to head home without a single summit amongst them. They were defeated not by the mountains themselves but by the weather, which has been persistently bad all summer long. But there appears to be some hope on the horizon as long range forecasts say there could be a shift in the weather in the early days of August. That is good news for the teams on K2 and a few other peaks.

Lets start this update off with a success story for change. A team of Slovenian and American climbers successfully topped out on K7 last week along a new route. According to Rock and Ice, Hayden Kennedy, Kyle Dempster, and Urban Novak went up the 6935 meter (22,757 ft.) mountain along its East Face. The summit push began when a weather window opened on July 16 and included a night spent in an open bivy as they pushed through incredibly tough mixed terrain and deep snow. The trio managed to force there way through those conditions however and topped out on the 19th before returning to Base Camp on the 20th. Congrats the whole team on a great effort in tough conditions.

On Gasherbrum I another team has decided to pack it in for the year. The Hungarian squad that had hoped to scale the 8080 meter (26,509 ft) mountain was turned back on their summit bid due to heavy snow and avalanche dangers. They posted an update yesterday that said they would depart BC today and begin their journey home. They report that GI Base Camp isn't completely deserted yet, but few remain to try to climb the mountain again.

For the next few weeks our attention will shift to K2 where the teams are gearing up for the tough climb ahead. The weather remains dicey there as well and Tunc Findik reports that attempts to climb up to C2 were aborted due to continued high winds and heavy snows. He is holding out hope that things will change after August 1st however and he and his teammate can start climbing in ernest.



Peter Hamor reports similar conditions and although his latest dispatch today is short and sweet, its meaning is unmistakable. The weather dictates the action at this point and for now the team remains in Base Camp. The same place they've spent most of the week.

Al Hancock arrived in K2 BC on Wednesday and has started getting comfortable for the challenges ahead. He and his teammates have already carried some gear up to ABC, with Al falling into a covered crevasse up to his armpits along the way. Their porters hoped to begin shuttling gear up to the high camps today but as with all things right now, that plan was "weather permitting." Al, who just shuffled over to K2 from Broad Peak, says that Base Camp is colder and more lonely, but it is his "office" for the job ahead.

Finally, the Trango Air Wall Expedition team checked in from the Baltoro Glacier yesterday. After arriving in Islamabad on Sunday and making their way to Skardu on Tuesday, they started the trek to Nameless Tower from Askole and will now take a few days hiking before getting to Base Camp. Most of their gear arrived safe and sound but they are missing one bag that contained solar panels and a tent. That means they could be limited on communications while on the climb and they may all have to squeeze into one tent or dig snow caves along the way. They do however have all of their climbing and BASE jumping gear, which is most important for the success of the expedition. They should arrive in BC early next week and start the tough climb up the Tower.

That's all for now. Lets hope the weather changes next week so there is actually some climbing news to report.

The summer climbing season in Pakistan is starting to grind toward the finish line as the weather continues to take its toll on the teams across the region. It seems that all the reports are the same as climbers cite an unusually high level of snowfall, strong winds and dangerous avalanche conditions. This past weekend several teams hoped to top out on their respective peaks, but unfortunately Mother Nature had other plans. Now, many of those teams are left to ponder whether or not its time to go home or give it another go.

Teams on Broad Peak were set to make summit bids this weekend but were stymied by heavy snow above Camp 3. As a result, they've all retreated back to Base Camp where the Field Touring Alpine squad reports that their group is starting to break up. Two of the members of the team, including Al Hancock, will now move on to K2, where they'll face even more formidable challenges. Others on the team are waiting to see if they'll get another crack at the summit, while the majority of them have decided it is time to go home. They reached an altitude of 7000 meters (22,965 ft) but had no chance to go higher. Perhaps those who are persistent and patient, and are lucky enough to have more time to stay, may yet stand on the summit.

A Dutch Team on BP is essentially having the same experience. They managed to climb up to Camp 3 as well, but turned back when they found the snow above that point to be too difficult to climb through. As of their last dispatch they are all back in BC as well and watching the forecast. There are some indications that things could improve near the end of this week, but for now everyone waits to see how things develop.



On K2 there has been no change in the past few days and at the moment both Peter Hamor and Tunc Findik are in Base Camp awaiting an opportunity to go back up the mountain. Having established Camp 2 and spent a few nights there, the two squads, which are climbing independently of one another, are off to a good start on the world's most challenging mountain, but they've only just begun to work and there is a lot of difficult climbing ahead. They'll have some new neighbors soon however as more teams will join them in BC.

Things are no better on Gasherbrum I where a German team has been relegated to Base Camp where they await their fate as well. They had hoped to be in Camp 2 now on an acclimatization rotation, but like everyone else they've been left watching the weather. They report that no teams have reached Camp 3 on the mountain this year and that ropes are only fixed  halfway between C2 and 3. They also indicate that avalanches have been a persistent problem as well, which is making it even more of a challenge to go up. They hope to gain access to the higher sections of the mountain in the next day or two as they attempt to fix lines and establish their next camp, but the chances of that happening seem quite slim.

Finally, Louis Rousseau has announced that he is done with GI after being denied a summit bid last week. He isn't just done for the season however. The experienced climber says he'll never return to the mountain that claimed the lives of his friends this past winter. Louis has topped out on 13 of the 14 8000-meter peaks, but he'll leave this one off his resume as he no longer thinks the rewards outweigh the risks. He says the mountain is too dangerous and has too much snow this year, creating avalanches and hidden crevasses. As a result, he leaves Base Camp tomorrow and begins his long journey home. Gasherbrum I has brought him nothing be heartbreak.

The next few days should prove interesting as the hold-outs wait for good news from the weatherman. I'm not expecting much to change however and now time is no longer on their side. The weather will change for the worse soon and it won't let up for some time. The season is rapidly coming to a halt and it appears that there will be very few, if any, summits in Pakistan this summer.

The news out of Pakistan continues unabated today with the confirmation of the successful summit of Nanga Parbat along the Mazeno Ridge route and updates on the progress of other teams in the region.

For nearly a week now we've had conflicting reports on the status of the Mazeno Ridge team. First they summited, then they didn't and now they have once again. This time for real. Although one of the team members, Cathy O'Dowd, elected to descend back to Base Camp, her companions, Sandy Allan and Rick Allen, stayed on the mountain and persisted to the summit despite bad weather and awful snow conditions. The duo topped out at 6:12 PM local time this past Saturday, becoming the first to complete the incredibly long and tough Mazeno approach which includes eight sub-summits in excess of 7000 meters (22,965 ft) in height. At the time they were running low on both food and fuel but refused to give up their one chance at success while the weather was still tolerable enough to allow access to the top.

This news puts an end to the speculation about the team's whereabout and safety. Glad to hear that everyone is okay and that success was achieved on this very difficult climb. Congratulations to Sandy and Rick for such an outstanding effort.

Elsewhere, the Field Touring Alpine team is in the midst of their summit push on Broad Peak where they've reached Camp 3 today. They're currently camping at 7000 meters in high winds and snow, and tomorrow they'll actually dismantle their camp and move it higher before making an attempt at the summit. The team will likely establish Camp 4 at 7400 meters (24,278 ft) where they'll keep an eye on the forecasts and wait for a window to open this weekend.

Over on Gasherbrum I, Louis Rousseau and the rest of his team are safely back in BC and sharing the details of their failed summit bid. From the sounds of things, the mountain wasn't exactly kind to the climbers who saw five of the six teammates knocked over by an avalanche just below Camp 3. After evaluating the conditions and seeing an increase in winds and snows, the group decided to turn back, but it still took two days for them to safely descend back to Base Camp. Several of the climbers now see their departure dates looming and are currently weighing their options. They're keeping a close eye on a summit push that is currently underway on Gasherbrum II, which has yet to see a summit this year as well. If the 15-man squad that is attempting that peak is successful, then Rousseau and the rest of his teammates may shift their plans to make a quick summit bid on GII instead.

Finally, over on K2 the teams are moving again. Tunc Findik and his climbing mate Azim Gheychisaz are currently in Camp 2, while Peter Hamor and his mates have gone up to C1 today. Everyone appears to be doing well as they continue their acclimatization rounds. The real challenge is ahead.

It has been another busy 24 hours for news out of Pakistan where there were a number of updates on the status of several teams including those on the Mazeno Ridge. Bad weather is once again making things difficult, but the climbers are forging ahead as best as they can none the less.

We'll start on the Mazeno Ridge team who we were all waiting to hear from for the past few days. Team member Cathy O'Dowd called into Exweb Headquarters yesterday to let everyone know that the team is fine and that she made it down safely from the mountain. There are also unconfirmed reports that her mates Sandy Allan and Rick Allen successfully topped out on Nanga Parbat over the weekend, but there are no details on that climb, the whereabout of Sandy and Rick (or their Sherpas) and the team's website hasn't been updated either. Hopefully all is well and the team is gathering back in BC, but for now lets keep our fingers crossed that they're safe. We'll get summit confirmation in the near future I'm sure.

On Broad Peak, the Field Touring Alpine team started up the mountain yesterday and hope to be in C3 today. If they're able to reach that point, the plan is to establish Camp 4 tomorrow then proceed to the summit when the weather allows. Team leaders expect that to happen sometime between Friday and Sunday of this week.

Also on the move on BP is Al Hancock who was in Camp 1 yesterday and hopes to reach C2 today. He reports that the weather was awful yesterday and that the forecasts moving forward are highly unpredictable. Still, this is the probably the last chance to climb the mountain this year and he and his team need to be in position to take advantage of a window if it does open. Al says that several other strong teams, including a French squad, have turned back on their attempts after becoming physically exhausted by the strong winds and deep snow. It seems the Broad Peak season is coming to an end rapidly and may have no summits this year.

The teams on Gasherbrum I are experiencing similar bad weather which made their retreat from a weekend summit bid back to Base Camp extremely harrowing. The squad led by Louis Rousseau is now safely back down the mountain but it wasn't an easy descent. They're taking stock of their situation at the moment and deciding what to do next, but it seems they will likely pull the plug on the expedition tomorrow.

Stay tuned for more updates as we get them. It seems a lot of the early season expeditions are now coming to an end and the focus will begin to shift over to K2, which is always a daunting and difficult peak for even the most gifted of mountaineers.

It was another busy and dramatic weekend in Pakistan where the climbing teams continued to chase their respective summits, which have proven to be elusive thus far.

Last week was a roller coaster ride for those following the Mazeno Ridge team. First it was reported that they successfully summited Nanga Parbat along the extremely long approach and a few days later we learned that they hadn't topped out at all and the reports of their success were a translation error. At that time they were low on food and fuel and the weather conditions were not very cooperative in allowing them get to the summit. Over the weekend the team actually split into two groups, with Cathy O'Dowd and the support Sherpa's electing to head down the mountain along an unknown route while Sandy Allan and Rick Allen decided to attempt to go back up the mountain for another attempt on the summit. Since then there have been no updates and now after three days there has to be some concern over the team's condition and whereabouts. Lets keep our fingers crossed that they are able to descend safely.

Meanwhile, over on Gasherbrum I , Louis Rousseau's team was turned back from their summit bid this weekend as well. On Friday they were in Camp 2 and hoped to climb to Camp 3 on Saturday with the hope that a predicted weather window would open today. But the route to C3 was covered with heavy snow, making it impossible for them to reach that point. On top of that, the window hasn't opened at all and GI is now reported being hit with a storm. As a result, the team turned back and is now on its way to Base Camp, where they hope to evaluate the situation and decide if there is hope for another summit bid. It doesn't sound very promising at this point.

Things are looking a bit better on Broad Peak where the Field Touring Alpine squad and Al Hancock are reporting that their summit bids should begin today or tomorrow. They're watching the weather as well and the forecast says that the summit should be accessible between the 19th and 21st of July, so they hope to be in position to take advantage of the situation by Thursday of this week. They still need to fix ropes up to Camp 4, but things are looking good for a late week summit attempt.

On K2 Tunc Findik moved up the mountain to Camp 1 over the weekend, but has since retreated back to BC due avalanche dangers and changing weather conditions. He has already established C1 and may have been hoping to go up to C2 on an acclimatization rotation and gear carry, but for now Tunc will have to be patient. K2 will certainly test those patience in the weeks ahead.

Findik isn't alone on the mountain. Peter Hamor is also attempting K2 this summer and is currently in Base Camp as well. Peter hasn't wasted any time on the mountain however as he has already climbed up to C2, established camp there and spent a night for acclimatization purposes. So far everything seems to be going well and on schedule.

Seems like it's been a tough season in Pakistan so far. Lets hope there is some summit success for these climbers soon.

Now that communications with the Mazeno Ridge team has been reestablished we're starting to get a clearer picture of what happened on the summit push for Sandy, Rick and Cathy. Apparently the team did not summit Nanga Parbat as was reported a few days back despite the exultant Tweet that was sent out indicating success on the mountain. Instead, the team faced high winds, lots of snow and very tough conditions that ended up turning them back before they could top out.

As noted yesterday, the team was low on both food and fuel when they made their summit attempt. It had been seven days since they had set out from Base Camp and they were mostly down to reserves. Despite that, and the prediction of high winds, they elected to have a go at the summit none the less. They battled for a number of hours but in the end they were turned back due to poor conditions and exhaustion.

I think it is safe to say that this expedition is probably over. I can't imagine that they'll have the energy left to make another summit bid after the long, difficult climb along the Mazeno Ridge. They've been on the move for days now and will need lots of recovery time, even if they were to go for a Nanga summit along the traditional route.

Elsewhere, over on Gasherbrum I, Louis Rousseau's team is now in Camp 2 and will be proceeding up to Camp 3 tomorrow. They report very cold temperatures and high winds, but they'll evaluate the situation once they safely reach C3 and decide on when they'll make their final push as well. That could come as early as Sunday if the weather cooperates.

Right now it seems it is all about the weather. Across the region there are a number of teams waiting and watching. Next week could be a very active one before the action begins to shift over to K2.

More news from the climbing scene in Pakistan today where some climbers are heading up, others are heading down and a new season begins on the world's most challenging mountain.

First up, the Mazeno Ridge team has sent out an audio dispatch in which they talk about their difficult summit of Nanga Parbat in very windy conditions. It took them seven days to follow the ridge to the top of the mountain and one of their biggest issues at the end was the lack of food and gas for their stove. Going without food is one thing but the stove is usually necessary to melt snow for drinking water, so Sandy, Rick and Cathy are no doubt feeling the strain of their expedition at this point. A week is a long time to spend on a summit push and as you can imagine, but Rick and Sandy aren't finished quite yet. They've joined another climber on an attempt to open a new route, while Cathy prepares to go down the mountain to BC and a much deserved rest.

Over on Gasherbrum I, the team that includes both Louis Rousseau and Annalisa Fioretti have now left BC on their summit push. Three members of the team went up to Camp 1 yesterday and the plan is to continue the ascent to C2 today. Their watching the weather at the moment and hoping for a predicated window to open on schedule this weekend. If all goes as planned, they should top out on Saturday or Sunday.

Finally, the K2 climbing season is officially underway as Tunc Findik and his Iranian partner Azim Gheychisaz have already arrived in BC and established Camp 1. They're currently back in Base Camp after their acclimatization round and they're getting settled in for the long, tough climb ahead.

It has been another difficult few days in the big mountains of Pakistan where the teams continue to prep for their summit pushes and the weather remains as unpredictable as ever. The methodical acclimatization process is taking its toll but each rotation gets them closer to their goal and tunes their body for the challenges ahead.

One of those teams is already on their summit push and have been so for the past week. Sandy Allan, Rick Allen, and Cathy O'Dowd make up the Mazeno Ridge Team who are attempting to summit Nanga Parbat by way of the longest ride of any of the 8000 meter peaks. They've now spent the past seven days above 7000 meters and they're on the final approach to the top of Mazeno Peak itself. It hasn't been easy however as they report copious amounts of very soft snow that is very unstable and exhausting to wade through. At the moment they team says they are focused on getting to the top of Mzeno and then they'll turn their attention towards NP itself.

On Gasherbrum I, Louis Rousseau and his teammates, including Annalisa Fioretti, are having a very difficult time due to the high winds and powdery there. Shuttling gear up to Camp 3 has been very challenging indeed and Louis says that it has been one of the most difficult climbs of his career thus far. The snow was so soft at points that when the climbers would sink in they were unsure if it was simply the snow itself or a crevasse opening underneath them. That made for a very unnerving and tiring climb to say the least. Their weather reports say that the winds will keep the summit out of reach until at least July 14, which means they could begin their push late this week at which time all of the climbers on GI will work together to top out.

Al Hancock has checked in from Broad Peak this morning as well. He's back in Base Camp after spending a few days up the hill in Camp 2. He says the weather is absolutely unpredictable right now with lots of snow and cold temperatures. Al says that the descent from C2 to BC was a quick one, but it was a challenge as well. He and his Sherpa guide had a rope break and a piton come free from the rocks, reminding them that they have to stay vigilant and aware at every stage of the climb. After spending a few days resting, the team will now watch the weather and wait to see when they can begin their summit push.

The Field Touring Alpine team is in the same position at the moment. Waiting in Base Camp to see when they'll get their opportunity. The weather will dictate the schedule moving forward but it seems that they are ready to move up as well.

We should know a lot more about summit schedules later in the week. It looks like this coming weekend could be the start of the push across the region.

Over the past few days the teams currently climbing in Pakistan have taken the opportunity to move up to higher altitudes to either acclimatize or begin their summit push. Weather is spotty across the region but progress is being made and the climbers are working their way ever closer to their goals.

The big push has begun on the Mazeno Ridge, where Sandy Allan, Rick Allen, and Cathy O'Dowd have started their ascent. They'll need to conquer eight sub-summits of 7000 meters (22,965 ft) before they make their approach to the 8125 meter (26,657 ft) peak of Nanga Parbat. It will be a true test of endurance to say the least.

While on the approach the team won't be posting blog updates but they are sharing progress via Cathy's Twitter account. They set out yesterday and it seems that progress is slow thus far, but they are on the ridge at last and headed towards their eventual goal. If successful, they'll be the first climbers to summit Nanga Parbat via the Mazeno route, which is the longest ridge of any 8000 meter peak. Stay tuned for more updates on this one.

On Broad Peak Al Hancock reports that some of his teammates have completed their rotation to Camp 2 where they spent the night as part of their acclimatization process. Some of those climbers have already headed back down to Base Camp, but Al remains there tonight as he continues to adapt to the thin air as well. He reports that yesterday he had a bout of stomach issues, not uncommon at altitude, which made his stay in C1 a bit uncomfortable. But moving up to C2 today he continues to climb well and is ready for the challenges ahead. Tomorrow he and his Pakistani guide will return to BC as well, and after resting for a few days they'll repeat the process up to Camp 3. Once that is done, they'll begin watching the sky for a weather window to the summit.

The Gasherbrum I team that includes Louis Rousseau and Annalisa Fioretti, have now established Camp 2 although doing so was not without its challenges. On the approach to that point, located at 6500 meters (21,325 ft) Louis actually fell into a crevasse up to his armpits. Apparently the nasty little surprise was well covered in snow and after their brush with near-disaster, the team took its time on the route, making sure they were finding all the hidden crevasses along the way.

The group was the first to build their C2 on GI and the following day proceeded up to Camp 3 as well. That took longer than expected as well as they continued to find crevasses the hard way, namely be falling in. At one point Louis discovered one whose bottom could not be seen, which was a tense and scary moment to say the least. But they continued up to the Japanese Couloir before turning back, and after spending another night in Camp 2, they returned to BC today.

Finally, the Hungarian squad on Gasherbrum I, also known as Hidden Peak, also report progress. They say that poor weather has hampered some progress over the past few days, but that then intend to move up today, carrying gear loads to Camp 2. Their weather reports that the next few days should be good, but after that the jet stream could move in once again and limit access above 7000 meters (22,965 ft). Before then they'll try to get as much work done as possible before waiting out the weather once again.

It seems that we're at the mid-point for many of these climbs and it will only be a matter of time before the team are ready for their push.

It was a relatively quiet weekend in Pakistan, where it seems the climbing teams are all in a lull between acclimatization rounds, weather windows and gear carries. But the week ahead looks like it'll be a bit busier as the mountaineers get back to work.

One of those teams is the Mazeno Ridge trio of Sandy Allan, Rick Allen and Cathy O'Dowd, who began their summit push today. Their weather report indicates that the next two weeks will be a mixed bag, with unstable conditions throughout, but nothing too nasty as to prevent them from going up. Their likely to need a good portion of that two weeks to complete the climb, as they'll be forced to negotiate a very long approach that includes eight 7000 meter (22,965 ft) peaks before the take on the crown jewel of the climb, Nanga Parbat, which stands 8126 meters (26,660 ft). Expect regular updates on their progress in the coming days.

Once climber who won't summit Nanga this year is Romanian Torok Zsolt, who posted earlier today that it is with a heavy heart that he has to call it quits on his solo climb this season. Torok waxes poetic about his love for the mountains and his enjoyment of climbing Himalayan peaks alone. But he says that the weather has continued to be bad and that the upper portions of the mountain are unstable and unsafe. He experienced those conditions first hand last week when he climbed above Camp 3 and found himself in some precarious positions. After making it back to BC safely, he now estimates that it will be a minimum of ten days before NP is safe to climb, and he simply doesn't have the time or resources to stay and see the expedition through to the end.

Over on Broad Peak, Al Hancock is celebrating Canada Day in Base Camp with his mates. They've been shuttling gear up the mountain and now have Camps 1 and 2 established now. They'll spend the next few days resting before proceeding up again. If the weather holds, they should have C3 built by the end of the week and they'll start thinking about their summit bid as well. For Al, BP is just a warm-up for K2, which will come later in July if everything stays on plan.

Louis Rousseau's Gasherbrum squad, which includes Annalisa Fioretti, has made steady progress as well. They spent the weekend shuttling gear up to Camp 2 and should most likely be headed back to BC as well after getting their gear ready for the Japanese Couloir. With that work out of the way, they'll  rest up and watch the weather before making their first summit push too. That could come later in the week as well.

It seems the next week or so is going to be very interesting. Stay tuned for more updates.

It has been a few days since I posted an update from Pakistan, where the teams are trying being patient and waiting for an opportunity to resume their acclimatization rounds. The weather hasn't been all that cooperative this week however and so many climbers are in a holding patter at the moment.

On Broad Peak, Al Hancock says that his squad scrubbed its plans to climb up to Camp 1 yesterday due to the fresh snow that has fallen since the beginning of the week. He and a few other members of the team did move up today however and they intend to spend the night there before proceeding up to Camp 2 tomorrow. They're making a gear haul on this rotation and fixing the lines. The remainder of the team will follow along to C1 tomorrow with gear to help establish Camp 2. Weather permitting of course.

Also on BP is the Field Touring Alpine team who are reporting much improved weather today. They're starting their second rotation out of Base Camp as well with some of the squad climbing up to Camp 1 today and others following along tomorrow. Their goal is to spend the evening at C2 over the weekend in an effort to let their bodies get use to the altitude, as well as carrying gear for the climb ahead.

The team of Sandy Allan, Rick Allen and Cathy O'Dowd are on the Mazeno Ridge of Nanga Parbat where they saw their efforts to climb higher earlier in the week thwarted by heavy snow. They've since made up for lost time however, going all the way up to Camp 3 yesterday. C3 on the Ridge is located at  6450 meters (21,161 ft) and after spending the night there, they are now back in BC resting. They'll now watch the weather very closely and when a window opens they'll know attempt the summit along the very long and difficult route up the Mazeno. Stay tuned for updates on this one.

Over on Gasherbrum I, Louis Rousseau and members of  his team have just returned to BC after spending the night in Camp 1. They report unusually warm conditions while crossing through the already dangerous icefall and as a result it was much slower going than they had anticipated. Louis has already expressed concerns about conditions in the icefall this season and it seems that it may be even more precarious than usual. They're expecting to climb to C2 sometime early next week, and from there the climb gets really challenging as the upper slopes of GI start to get much steeper.

It looks like the season is in full swing right now and should continue to be interesting over the next few weeks. I'm not sure how many squads are confirmed for K2 yet, but that mountain always puts an exclamation point on the end of the season. Can't wait to see if anyone can tame the Savage Mountain this year.

The weekend was a busy one in Pakistan, where the summer climbers are busy preparing for the challenges ahead. Some spent some time getting settled in their respective base camps while others have started the long process of shuttling their gear up the mountain. Things are starting to get busy there and it won't be long before we start to see the first summit attempts of the season.

On Nanga Parbat Romanian climber Torok Zsolt is back in BC after spending some time at altitude. At the end of last week he was heading up to Camp 3 for an acclimatization round, but has since come off the mountain. He reports bad weather at the moment with steady rains in Base Camp and snow accumulations continuing up high. At least a meter of new snow has fallen over the past few days and it looks like the weather pattern could stay the same throughout this week. After that, the predictions are for good weather ahead, but it will take a few days before the snow settles and the route is safe to climb.

Over the weekend the Mazeno Ridge team got their first real look at what they'll be attempting. The climbers shuttled gear and supplies up to Camp 1 and 2 and caught their first real glimpses of the ridge itself, which is called the "ultimate endurance challenge" of mountaineering.  In order to summit Nanga Parbat, the team will first have to negotiate a long ridge which includes a strong of eight sub-summits of 7000 meters (22,965 ft) or more. The image attached to this post is one that they shot while climbing along that ridge this past weekend.

Over on Broad Peak, Al Hancock and his team arrived in BC on Saturday and spent the weekend getting established and resting. Today the team is planning on sorting their gear and will likely prep the equipment to for hauling up to Camp 1 within the next day or two. Al reports that he has now shaken off the flu like symptoms that he was feeling on the trek into BP and is now feeling strong and ready to climb.

A Hungarian team that plans on climbing Gasherbrum I arrived in BC over the weekend as well. They are currently prepping their gear as well and will begin their ascent with their first gear-shuttles in the next few days. Also on GI is Italian climber Annalisa Fioretti, who is part of the Louis Rousseau team that I mentioned last week. Annalisa says that the team began shuttling gear to Camp 1 on Saturday, but  slow progress through a very dangerous icefall forced them to turn back before they reached their destination. The hope is that conditions will improve as the season goes along, but at the moment, access to GI seems to be very sketchy.

Look for more updates as weather conditions improve and teams get their legs under them. More to come soon.

A few days back I mentioned that most of the action in the Himalaya this summer has taken place on Nanga Parbat thus far, but that there were a host of other teams en route to Pakistan and the various mountains there to begin their climbs. In addition to further progress on Nanga, climbers have now started their expeditions on Gasherbrum I and Broad Peak as well.

Al Hancock has begun posting dispatches from BP, which he hopes to use as a warm-up for an attempt on K2 later in the summer. After arriving in Skardu on the 15th, he and his team were off to Askole the same day, taking five hours to drive to that location. The following day they started their trek to Base Camp on Broad Peak and they should be settling in there today. Al reports that he has been feeling a bit under the weather, fighting off flu like symptoms. Hopefully he and the team will have a day or two of rest before the begin the first acclimatization rounds on the 8047 meter (26,414 ft) mountain.

Meanwhile, over on Gasherbrum I, Canadian Louis Rousseau has arrived in BC as well following a six day trek across the Baltoro Glacier. He and his team spent yesterday getting settled and expect to make their first foray up to Camp 1 today. It will be a bitter-sweet expedition for Rousseau, who came not just to take on the mountain, but to look for signs of his friend Gerfried Goschl who, along with two other climbers, perished on this mountain while trying to climb it this past winter.

ExWeb is reporting that the Rousseau expedition isn't the only one in Gasherbrum Base Camp. Three other teams are already onsite as well including Polish, Korean and Swiss squads. Others are expected to join them in the next few days with some of the climbers looking to bag GI while others will attempt Gasherbrum II.

On Nanga Parbat the teams there continue to make solid progress on the mountain. After a rest day yesterday, two members of the Mazeno Ridge team hope to climb up to Camp 2, located at 6200 meters (20,341 ft), but then immediately descend back down to Camp 1 to spend the night. This is all part of their acclimatization plan of course as they wait for their Sherpa team to set up C2.

Romanian Torok Zsolt is also on NP and reached Camp 3 yesterday. He reports very deep snow high on the mountain, which could delay his summit bid. Having spent the night at C3 Torok is probably physically ready to go, but will likely descend to BC now and wait to see if the amount of snow on the peak is reduced in the days ahead.

The summer climbing season is just starting to ramp up. Look for plenty more updates in the weeks ahead. It should be an interesting summer in the Himalaya and Karakoram.

The Everest season is barely over and it is already time to look forward to Pakistan and the upcoming climbs in the Karakoram. While the summer season isn't nearly as busy as spring in the Himalaya, it will still be filled with plenty of drama and intrigue as some of the top climbers in the world take on the toughest peaks on the planet.

As usual, ExWeb has the definitive list of expeditions and they've begun updating that list to reflect the new season ahead. Most are scheduled to take place in June and July, with Gahserbrum I (8080m/26,509ft) and II (8035m/26,362ft), a well as Broad Peak (8051m/26,414ft) getting the early attention. After that, K2 (8611m/28,251ft) will take center stage with no fewer than three expeditions currently set to take on the toughest climb in the world.

Climber Sophie Denis has big plans for the months ahead. Not only is she scheduled for K2 in July, but she'll warm up on Gasherbrum I and II first. She's also stenciled in Shisha Pangma (8013m/26,289ft) for the fall as well, which seems like quite an ambitious scheduled at this point. She'll be joined on K2 by Canadian Al Hancock and a large Korean team as well.

Elsewhere, 73-year old Carlos Soria has plans to climb Kangchenjunga (8586m/28,169ft) in September as he continues his quest to nab all 14 of the 8000 meter peaks. In addition to this peak, he'll also attempt Annapurna and Dhaulagiri this year.

Interestingly enough, ExWeb also has two expeditions listed for the Trango Towers in July as well, both by Korean teams. One is listed as a "Free Climbing" expedition, which should be quite the challenge to follow. The Towers are made up of some of the most dramatic rock faces you'll find anywhere on the planet and are a difficult mix of high altitude mountaineering and technical rock climbing. The tallest, known as the Great Tower, is 6286 meters (20,623ft) in height, but features a prominence of 800 meters or about 2625ft leading to the top.

Of course we'll be following all of these and more once the Karakoram season gets into full swing. The first of these expeditions is scheduled to get underway next week, so stay tuned for updates.