Indonesian Digital News Archive

Over the past couple of months I've posted two trip reports (Part 1 and Part 2) from my friends at Tour d'Afrique who were busy riding 12,000km from Shanghai to Istanbul on their Silk Route tour. They recently finished up that expedition and sent me the video below to share with readers. The short film offers video clips and photos from the ride, giving us all a sense of what it is like to cycle this ancient and epic route. It looks like a fantastic experience and I thank them for sharing some of it with those of us who weren't lucky enough to join them on the ride.

Also, big thanks to Catharina Robbertze for creating the video for us. Great stuff Catharina!

Back in July I posted a wonderful trip report from cycling tour operator Tour d'Afrique's amazing Silk Route ride. For those who aren't aware of this tour, it is a 12,000km (7456 mile), 129-day journey from Shanghai, China to Istanbul, Turkey by bike. At the time of the original post, the riders were in the early stages of their adventure, but now they are nearing the end and late last week I received another update from the road. This time that report comes courtesy of Comms Director Catharina Robbertz who had this to say:

Expecting the unexpected
There’s always a certain level of risk involved when travelling and when you’re on the road for more than four months you have to be prepared for anything. This is exactly what cyclists taking part in the Silk Route, organised by Tour d’Afrique, have learnt since taking off on a 12000km journey from Shanghai in May. 

For the most part the challenges facing us could have been predicted beforehand. The excruciating heat in the Taklimakan Desert and the frigid temperatures on the Pamir Highway. The headwinds and tough climbing on unpaved passes to altitudes of 4600m. The monotony of food as we ventured into desolate areas inhabited only by a few people, donkeys, horses, marmots and Marco Polo goats. All of these were expected and could be prepared for. But sometimes something happens that cannot be predicted or prepared for and threatens to derail a beautiful journey. 

As we made our way from the highest point of our journey to the city of Khorog we were all relieved to have survived one of the toughest sections of the tour and looking forward to a much-needed rest day. The Pamir Highway had been beautiful and certainly a highlight for many of us but the promise of warmer temperatures and a clean hotel was the cause of some excitement for most of us.

 However, as we woke to the sound of gunfire on the morning we were supposed to leave it became apparent very quickly that we were stuck in a city under siege. The unexpected had happened and a seemingly insignificant act of murder two days before had turned into war. Government troops were streaming into the city while locals had set up road blocks to keep them out and in the first day of fighting 42 people were killed (according to news reports). 

The next morning a cease fire was agreed upon between the two fighting parties but there was still no way for us to get out of the city as roads were still blockaded and snipers were still lurking in the mountains. After days of uncertainty our group of cyclists as well as other foreigners were evacuated from the city by a convoy of vehicles from EU embassies based in the capital of Tajikistan, Dushanbe. Riding the 600km from Khorog to Dushanbe took two days on extremely bad roads and upon arrival we were not only happy to be in safer territories but also looking forward to getting back on our bicycles and continuing our journey in the way we set out to do originally. 

Looking back adding a war-torn city to our route did not detract from our journey. In several ways it contributed to what is already a memorable adventure. We have experienced so much of what the Silk Road traders experienced in the past and being caught in a conflict further contributes to an authentic Silk Road journey. Furthermore, the attitude of the people of Central Asia and in particular Khorog, where they were just as worried about the well-being of perfect strangers in their midst as they were about their loved-ones who were in much greater danger than we were, was particularly humbling.
The stories we will be able to tell when we get back home will speak not only of beautiful scenery, interesting food and nice hotels, but of challenges overcome, expecting the unexpected and arriving at our final destination stronger than we were before. That’s what adventure is all about.

As I said in the first Silk Route report, this seems like such an amazing way to travel through these countries and a fantastic adventure to say the least. Tour dAfrique puts together some great cycling expeditions all over the planet and anyone of their journeys would be a trip of a lifetime. If you're looking for  a travel experience that is unlike anything else, I would HIGHLY recommend you give their site a look. And if you missed the Silk Route ride this year, no worries. There is plenty of time to start planning for 2013!

A few weeks ago I posted a trailer for a spectacular looking mountain biking film called Where The Trail Ends. The movie follows several top riders as they head out to ride their bikes in some of the most remote destinations on the planet. Today I have a video of highlight clips of the riders taking on some impressive singletrack (if you can even call it that) in the Gobi Desert. Definitely not a ride for beginners.

I was intrigued with this film when I saw the trailer and these clips are even more interesting yet. I'm looking forward to tracking down this one down when it comes out in September.

Where The Trail Ends is a mountain biking movie that looks like it'll be very different from what we're use to seeing. It follows a group of riders who decide to leave the familiar confines of Utah behind and head out into the wide world in search of interesting new places to explore. They visit the Gobi Desert of China for instance and are likely the first people to ever ride through the region. The scenery looks spectacular, the mountain biking looks tough and it seems the riders had a great time making the film. The movie looks fantastic and is due out in September.

Thanks to the Goat for sharing this today.

Yesterday Outside magazine posted a story about a disturbing incident that took place on the North Side of Everest back in May. It seems that a group of young men, all graduates from the Tibet Mountaineering Guide School (TMGS), assaulted a Chinese climber that they suspected of being on the mountain without a permit. When the man raised his ice axe in an attempt to defend himself, the group over powered him, roped his hands together and proceeded to force him back down the mountain. One witness who saw the incident is quoted in the article as saying, "It was disgraceful. They literally kicked him down the ropes. It was a disgusting example of a pack of bullies egging each other on and literally beating him down the hill."

Obviously being on the mountain without a permit is a major offense and Outside writer Grayson Schaffer says this climber was keeping to himself, which is a dead giveaway of someone trying to keep a low profile on the world's tallest mountain. But that certainly doesn't justify the treatment of this man, who would normally be fined heavily, kicked off the hill and possibly banned from climbing in Tibet for a period of time.

To add a bit more fuel to the fire, the climber also happened to be Chinese. Considering the delicate nature of the relationship between the Tibetans and the Chinese, its possible that the young men involved in this incident may have let pent up frustrations boil over to a degree. There is also a fear that the Chinese government could react harshly to the treatment of a Chinese citizen, possibly cracking down further on the Tibetans.

The Outside article says that the entire incident was captured on film mountain guide Kari Kobler who is one of the founders of Kobler & Partner, a company that leads expeditions to the North Side on an annual basis. Kobler says that he has no intention of releasing the film and that he has ties to the TMGS, where discipline is being handled internally. Kobler also indicated that the same group of thugs may have been involved in other problems on the North Side this year. He didn't wish to elaborate, but Schaffer speculated it had to do with the theft of bottled oxygen.

Stories like this are always a bit unsettling, as we like to think that their is a camaraderie that exists amongst the climbers on these big mountains. Hopefully this won't escalate into something really nasty between the Chinese and the Tibetans, but we do know that Beijing doesn't take kindly to any kinds of displays of aggression there.

The North Side has always been a bit more unruly than the South Side and this could be an indication that that side of the mountain still has a long way to go before it is completely tamed.

I've written about the Walking Home From Mongolia expedition on more than one occasion. For those who don't remember, it was the epic journey undertaken by Rob Lilwall and Leon McCarron during which they traveled on foot from the capital of Mongolia – Ulaan Baator – back to Hong Kong, during the dead of winter no less. The journey covered 5000km (3100 miles) and took 195 days to complete, ending exactly one week ago today.

Our friends over at CheapTents.com were able to get in touch with Leon, who is already back home in the UK, and pick his brain about the expedition. As you can imagine, he had a lot of interesting things to say. You can read the full interview here, in which he talks about his favorite parts of the walk, how he and Rob stayed motivated for weeks on end, which gear items performed well and what the two men might plan to do next. As usual with CheapTents, the interview is insightful, interesting and fun, and anyone thinking of doing a similarly long journey can probably pick up more than a few nuggets of good information.

Rob and Leon actually filmed their adventure and it is now being edited for airing on National Geographic. You can catch a glimpse of what they have in store for us in the clip below and keep your eyes peeled for the final film down the line.

Congrats to Rob and Leon on an amazing adventure and thanks to CheapTents for another good interview!

After years of mostly being ignored, the Mariana Trench has become a busy place this year. A Chinese submersible named Jiaolong (aquatic dragon) is set to make another dive into the trench sometime in the next few days, where its crew of three hopes to plummet 7000 meters (22,965 ft) below the surface of the ocean. To date, the vessel has only been down to about 5188 meters (17,020 ft).

As of the last report, the small craft was still aboard the  Xiangyanghong 09 science vessel and was approximately 200 nautical miles away from the proposed dive site. The crew was waiting for a tropical storm to vacate the area, and for seas to calm, before proceeding with the operation. They intend to make a shake-down dive to 5000 meters (16,404 ft) before proceeding deeper towards their ultimate goal.

This deep sea expedition is vastly different from the one James Cameron made back in March. For starters, Cameron went down solo and in a smaller vehicle. The Jiaolong will be manned by Ye Cong, Cui Weicheng and Yang Bo who are hoping to claim a "deepest dive" record, although what that record is I'm not sure. When he went down a few months back, Cameron reached a depth of about 10,940 meters (35,900 ft).

Still it is great to see more renewed interest in exploring the ocean's depths and I'll be watching to see how this crew fairs when it finally does make its big dive. Hopefully all will go well and they'll come back with some interesting finds as well.

According to the Telegraph, China has once again closed the borders to Tibet, barring any foreign travelers from visiting the country. The move comes just a few weeks after two protestors set fire to themselves outside of a temple in Lhasa in protest of Chinese occupation of the Himalaya country and as a new round of unrest is expected there.

Unlike in previous years when Tibet's borders were shut down, this move comes after the busy Himalaya climbing season. But the peak travel season is just about to begin and this move will have an impact on those who hoped to travel there this summer. The popular Saga Dawa festival is also set to begin today, although it seems outsiders won't be participating.

According to several travel companies that book tours to Tibet, the Chinese government has instructed them to stop accepting foreign visitors for an indefinite period of time. That could mean that the disruption of travel in Tibet could last just a few weeks or it could go on for some time.

Unfortunately a large segment of the population there makes its living from tourism and travel. Any disruption means that they will struggle to find work and provide for their families. Lets hope that this closure doesn't last long and that not only will they all be back to work soon, but the travelers who have been dreaming of visiting Tibet will get their opportunity to go there soon as well.