Indonesian Digital News Archive

One of the most daring and difficult climbs of last year was the first ascent of the Shark Fin on Mt. Meru put up by Jimmy Chin, Renan Ozturk and Conrad Anker. Those three men are some of the most experienced and respected climbers around and this expedition still pushed them to the very edge of their physical and mental limits. The video below is trailer for the documentary of that climb and it gives you a sense of the challenges that these three men had to over come just to reach the top. The film looks fantastic, that is if you enjoy watching climbers suffer.

Patagonia is one of the most beautiful places on Earth, bar none. Climbers Michi Lerjen and Jorge Ackermann traveled there recently to climb a new route on Fitz Roy, perhaps the most famous peak in an already famous region. Michi and Jorge share their adventure with us in this 20 minute short film that gives you a sense of that spectacular wilderness and the efforts they went through to climb there.

This is a fantastic little film about a big adventure. Enjoy.

Patagonia Winter from Royal Family Productions on Vimeo.

Climbers Mayan Smith-Gobat and Chantel Astorga have set a new speed record by female climbers on the El Capitan's the Nose in Yosemite National Park. The two women made their climb a few days ago and managed to chop a whopping three hours off the previous record, which was set just this past June.

Mayan and Chantel made a scouting run up the route last week and even though they felt they were going slow, they still managed to shave nine minutes off the old record, finishing in 10 hours, 10 minutes. But the ladies knew they could go faster and on Monday they took all of the knowledge they gained during the practice run and put it to good use. When they finished, they turned in a time of 7 hours, 26 minutes, completely obliterating the original time.

Not content with simply climbing one of the hardest routes in the world in record time, Mayan and Chantel moved on to also scale Half Dome. The completed the entire link-up in a time of 23 hours, 35 minutes and by doing so became the first all-female team to do both routes back-to-back. You can read Mayan's account of the climb on her blog, which has an excellent account of the day.

Congratulations to Mayan and Chantel on a job well done. Amazing climbing!

This past summer, photographer and filmmaker Corey Rich traveled to Pakistan to document David Lama and Peter Ortner's attempt to climb the vaunted Trango Towers as part of the Mammut 150 Peak Project. One of the pieces of gear he took with him was a remote controlled helicopter that was equipped with video cameras, which allowed him to capture the climb like never before. The video below gives us a sneak peek at what he was able to do, and while the full film of the expedition is still in post-production, I think it's safe to say that it's shaping up to be an interesting project.

On an unrelated note, I now want one of these camera-equipped RC drones for myself!

Mammut 150 Years Peak Project: Trango Tower, Pakistan (6286m / 20,623ft) - RC Helicopter Sample Footage from Corey Rich on Vimeo.

As we saw in the Solite 250 headlamp that I reviewed last week, the use of rechargeable lithium ion batteries is becoming more common. The use of those batteries bring a higher initial price tag, but they also deliver an impressive level of performance, both in terms of light produced and overall battery life.  Princeton Tec, a company seems to make a headlamp for every person and every situation, is even getting in on the act with their new Apex Rechargeable model. While the Apex and the Solite 250 share a few things in common, they are also quite unique as well, with both having their appeal for outdoor enthusiasts and travelers.

Rugged and durable, the Apex Rechargeable comes equipped with a comfortable, easy to adjust headband, complete with crown strap, that holds the lamp and battery pack firmly in place, even while on the move. But if you find the battery pack too cumbersome to wear, Princeton Tec was thoughtful enough to include a 42 inch (106 cm) extension cable that allows you to wear it on your belt or place it inside a backpack. With five total lights (1 Maxbright LED, 4 white regulated LED's) the Apex is capable of cranking out up to 200 lumens on its highest setting, which is incredibly bright but still falls below the Solite's amazing 250 lumens. Also included in the box is a USB cable,  a plastic bracket for the battery pack and a velcro strap that allows the light to be attached to the handlebars of your bike.

Performance wise, the Apex shines both literally and figuratively. It has four different brightness modes that each have a direct impact on the battery life. For instance, when on its highest setting (the 200 lumens mentioned above) the spotlight beam is capable of reaching more than a hundred meters out, although it comes at the expense of battery life. In this mode the Apex can run for about five hours, which is twice the burn time of the Solite at its highest setting. On its lowest setting, the battery life extends to 90 hours as the beam is dispersed wider but not so far in front of the wearer. The higher settings are fantastic while riding a bike, while the lower settings are much more useful for casual use on a backpacking or camping trip. There is also an emergency blinking mode that comes in handy if you ever need to signal for assistance.



Knowing that we're likely to use this in some demanding environments, Princeton Tec made the Apex Rechargeable water resistant to up to 1 meter of depth. That means you won't take it deep sea diving, but it should survive freak rainstorms or an accidental dunk in the stream. It is also built tough enough to survive more than its fair share of abuse while on the trail.

Recharging the Apex is a snap. Simply plug it into any USB port on a computer, external battery pack or solar charger. Recharge times vary depending on which method you're using, but I managed to top the battery off using my laptop in in about four hours. A solar charger will take considerably more time, but is a viable option for when you're traveling in remote places where you don't want to take computer.

Princeton Tec added in a few extra features that help this product stand out from the crowd. For instance, it features two easy to operate switches for controlling the light, which can be adjusted nicely even while wearing gloves. The lamp itself can pivot up or down to place the light exactly where you need it and the high-tech regulation chip ensure that the brightness level of the lamp stays at a consistent level across the entire battery charge. All of those things help to round out an impressive package that climbers, backpackers and mountain bikers will absolutely love.

Those looking to shave ounces off their gear may choose the Solite 250 over the Apex. The Solite weighs in at a svelte 149 grams (5.25 ounces), while Princeton Tec's offering tips the scales at 283 grams (9.9 ounces). Most of that difference comes from the more rugged construction of the Apex, which seems like it can withstand more punishment.

The two headlamps are comparable in price with an MSRP of $150. As I mentioned with my Solite review last week, that can induce a bit of initial sticker shock, but considering how much money these headlamps can save you in batteries, it should more than make up for itself over the life of the lamp. Both are extremely high quality products that should last you for years, no matter where your adventures take you.

The Reel Rock Tour 7 kicked off yesterday with the first showings of some great new climbing films. The Tour officially got underway in Boulder, Colorado (Where else?) But last night shows also took place in Orem, Utah; Minneapolis, Minnesota and Banner Elk, North Carolina. In the weeks ahead, the Reel Rock express will hit other parts of the U.S. as well. To find a location that will be showing the videos check out the Tour calendar here.

Some of the films that will be screened this year include The Shark Fin, which is about Conrad Anker's obsession with climbing an unclimbed route on Mt. Meru in India with Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk. Also, Honnold 3.0 takes a look at everyone's favorite free climber, Alex Honnold, while Wildeboys goes into the counter culture world of offwidth climbing. The Dura Dura, which documents Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra working a 5.15c route, completes the line-up. For more on the films click here and check out the trailer below.

Patagonia is one of the most strikingly beautiful and wild places on our planet. Tucked away at the southernmost end of South America, its very name inspires thoughts of adventure. It also happens to be a destination that is perfect for climbers looking for new challenges. That's exactly what Cheyne Lempe and Scott Bennett were hoping for when they traveled there earlier this year with the hope of scaling the massive 2000 meter (6561 ft) North West Ridge of Aguja Mermoz into The North Pillar of Cerro Fitz Roy. The video below captures some of their experiences on that climb, which was a harrowing one for a number of reasons.

Thanks to Alpinist for sharing this.

Viva Patagonia - First Ascent from Cheyne Lempe on Vimeo.

Earlier this summer a team of climbers from AlpineAdventures traveled to the Peruvian Andes to attempt a new route on the 5440 meter (17,847 ft) Puscanturpa Este. After three weeks of working the mountain, they finally managed to summit the tricky North Face. They named their new route Poco Loco.

The team captured plenty of video of the climb and they plan on releasing the full film down the line. The trailer for the film, which you'll find below, gives you a good idea of what the climbers had to overcome to stand on top. The rock climbing elements alone look challenging, particularly at altitude.

Dutch Peru Expeditie 2012 Trailer from vincent van beek on Vimeo.

Back in May of this year, Belgian explorer Louis-Phillipe Loncke set out on a traverse of Poland that began on Mt. Rysy, that country's highest peak, and ended at the Baltic Sea. In between he climbed, trekked and paddled for more than 1200km (745 miles) enjoying a number of unique experiences, and meeting plenty of people, along the way. The video below is a trailer for an upcoming documentary on the trek. It looks like great fun!

Poland Trek- The Trailer from Natalie Hill Photography on Vimeo.

The Wild Love series of videos is quickly becoming one of my favorites on the web. In the original video we saw how mountaineer Jake Norton and wife Wende Valentine managed family time with their more adventurous pursuits and the in the second video ultra-runner Krissy Moehl balances training and competition with spending time with friends.

Today we have the third video in the series, which turns the spotlight on climber Timmy O'Neill, a man who simply loves to live life to the fullest. Whether he's climbing, paddling, slacklining or pursuing his other passions, Timmy surrounds himself with the people he loves and cherishes every day as a gift. I think you'll find his philosophy for life to be infectious.

Wild Love: Timmy O'Neill from Andy Maser on Vimeo.

One of the few teams still in Pakistan this summer is the Trango Air Wall squad. The four person group that consists of Liv Sansoz, Tim Emmett, Jérome Blanc-Gras and Manu Guy have been attempting to climb the Great Trango Tower, a 6286 meter (20,623 ft) granite spire and then BASE jump from the top. Updates to their website have been few and far between, although there have been status reports on their Facebook page where today we learn that they are abandoning the climb.

The news actually comes via an update by Trey Cook on the EpicTV Daily. Trey reports that he spoke directly with the team while they were still on the Tower and they said that they were successful in their climb but poor weather was preventing them from reaching their exit point. The team spent 12-14 hours scaling the Great Tower but rapidly deteriorating conditions were preventing them from actually making the jump. So, with that in mind the four climbers were preparing to descend in the usual fashion then return to Base Camp before starting the long journey home.

This is just another example of how fickle the weather has been in the Karakoram this year. Aside from a short weather window at the end of July, it has been nearly impossible for anyone to climb in the region this summer. Thankfully some of the teams were able to achieve their goals when that window opened or it would have been an awful season indeed. The question is whether or not 2012 is an anomaly or if shifting global weather patterns are giving us a glimpse of what to expect in the future as well. At this point there is no answer to that and we'll just have to wait and see how things play out next summer.

Congratulations to the Trango Air Wall team on a successful climb. It's a shame they didn't get the chance to BASE jump, but job well done none the less. Hopefully everyone will descend safely and get home in one piece.

I've written about The Heroes Project on a couple of occasions in the past few months. It's the non-profit organization founded by Tim Medvetz that helps wounded veterans recover from their injuries and regain personal strength and self confidence through climbing expeditions. The group recently climbed Kilimanjaro with Marine Staff Sergeant Mark Zambon, who lost both of his legs while serving a tour of duty in Afghanistan.

Like all organizations of this type, The Heroes Project is always looking for ways to raise funds to support its efforts. They recently received some help in that department in the form of actor Dean Winters, who many readers will recognize from such television shows as Rescue Me and Oz. He also happens to play the part of "Mayhem" in a series of popular insurance commercials that are currently running here in the U.S. Dean has set up a Wish page in which he is asking for donations to help fund an upcoming Heroes Project expedition to Indonesia to climb Carstenz Pyramid. Dean is looking to raise $15,000 for the cause, which will help pay for US Army Retired Sgt. Noah Galloway to join the climb. Noah suffered an IED attack in Iraq, losing his left arm above the elbow and his left leg above the knee.

Here's a video of "Mayhem" explaining why he wants to help and encouraging us all to give to the cause. If you'd like to donate visit the Wish page by clicking here.

Not a whole lot has changed since our last update from Pakistan a few days ago. The teams are mostly in a holding pattern at the moment as they wait to see what the weather will give them. Some have called it quits for the season and started the long journey home, while others are simply trading one Base Camp for another.

One of those climbers who is switching peaks is Al Hancock who left Broad Peak yesterday and is now en route to K2 where he'll hope to have better luck. Al was climbing as part of the Field Touring Alpine team, who made a summit bid on BP last weekend but were turned back due to heavy snow and avalanche dangers above 7000 meters (22,965 ft). It'll take a few days for him to reach BC on K2 where he'll no doubt continue sharing his excellent dispatches once he's had the opportunity to get settled.

Speaking of the FTA team, they posted an update on their status yesterday and their weather forecasts say that there will not be another window in the near future. With that in mind and as they recover from their previous efforts, the rest of the squad will now return to Skardu and start to head home. They gave the expedition all they could but Mother Nature simply had other plans for the mountain this year.

While one expedition comes to a close another is just getting under way. I mentioned the Trango Air Wall project awhile back and it seems the team is now in Pakistan and making its way from Islamabad to Skardu. For those who don't remember, this is the group of four climbers who intend to scale Nameless Tower and BASE jump from the top. The Tower stands 6240 meters (20,472 ft) in height and features a massive 800 meter (2524 ft) wall that is amongst the most difficult high altitude climbs in the world. If successful in their bid, Liv Sansoz, Jérôme Blanc-Gras and Manu Guy, all of France, as well as Brit Tim Emmett, will be the first to BASE jump from the massive rock spire that is part of the Trango Towers.

Finally, there has been no news on K2 from either Peter Hamor or Tunc Findik. That can only lead us to believe that the weather remains bad and that the climbers are still biding their time in BC while they wait for an opportunity to shuttle more gear up the mountain. The next few weeks will be very telling on that mountain, the most difficult in the region if not the world.

Brooklyn, New York isn't exactly a place you would expect to find an outdoor gear and adventure company but that is exactly where the aptly named Brooklyn Outfitters is located. The small, grassroots company is dedicated to not only providing outdoor enthusiasts with some unique adventure opportunities but it also has a line of gear that will come in handy along the way.

I've recently had the good fortune of testing out BKO's Wolfjaw 34L backpack and came away very impressed with both it's high quality build and well thought out design. As you can probably guess from the name, this version of the Wolfjaw has a capacity of 34 liters, which makes it the perfect size for day hiking and peak bagging. That size is large enough to carry everything you'll need for a long day on the trail, but not so much that you'll be slowed down or have your movement inhibited in any way. The fact that the pack weighs just 25 ounces (708 grams) doesn't hurt the cause either.

Built from very durable Cordura fabrics, the Wolfjaw is able to take plenty of punishment without showing much in the way of wear and tear. My review unit has been on numerous hikes of varying lengths and it still looks the same as when I first took it out of the box a few months ago. Those same fabrics are also waterproof, which is greatly appreciated when you get caught in a surprise rainstorm while still miles away from your campsite or car.

In terms of design, the Wolfjaw takes a classic, simple approach. With just the main storage compartment and an outside organizational pocket, it first appears that BKO elected to go with the "less is more" approach to creating this pack. But then you start to notice all of the nice details, such as the removable compression straps, the ice axe loops and the integrated hydration pocket and you begin to understand the company's approach to building this pack. It isn't that they went with the less is more philosophy at all, but instead with went the "everything you need and nothing you don't" approach.

That's not to say that the pack doesn't have some nice frills. For instance, the main storage compartment is sealed with a roll top closure that you'd be more likely to find on a dry bag. This has the dual benefit of not only keeping moisture out to the inside of the pack, but also providing an excellent handle for carrying the bag around when it isn't on your back.



Speaking of your back, the bag also has a surprisingly comfortable foam pad that serves as a back support of sorts. This is a nice feature to have on longer hikes or climbs in which you're carrying a heavier load, but if you're looking to go fast and light and want to shed sue ounces, the pad is completely removable as well.

I found the pack's well padded shoulder straps carried a load very well and were comfortable for long days on the trail. The Voluminous interior compartment can swallow up a lot of gear and if you're not careful, the weight can add up quickly. But even with a large load, the Wolfjaw was enjoyable to wear and had minimal impact on my ability to move unrestricted.

If you're a fast packer, peak bagger or avid day hiker looking for a new pack to add to your own gear closet, you could do a lot worse than the Wolfjaw. While I wouldn't have minded having a few extra pockets to help keep things organized, in the long run the pack was very impressive. Despite the fact that Brooklyn Outfitters isn't a big, well known brand, they're already making quality gear on the same level as some of the bigger outdoor gear companies. I think you'll find the pack to be impressive as well and with a price tag of $160 it is a pretty solid bargain as well. For those looking for something a bit smaller, BKO also makes the Wolfjaw 16L pack which I'm sure shares the same build quality as its big brother.

The Eiger just might be the most iconic climbing face in all of Europe. Located in the Bernese Alps of Switzerland, it is an intimidating 3970 meters (13,025 ft) in height and has been challenging the world's best climbers for more than 150 years. The BBC made an interesting documentary on the beast and you can watch the entire thing on YouTube. The video is below, so pop some popcorn, get comfortable and find out why this is one of the toughest and most well known climbs in all the world.

Seven summiteer, and youngest person to climb Mt. Everest, Jordan Romero is setting off on a summer tour that he hopes will inspire young people to get active and pursue their own adventurous aspirations. Along the way  he also hopes to climb the highest point each of the 50 states and he wants us to come along with him.

Dubbed the Find Your Everest Tour, Jordan launched the first leg yesterday appearing at the YMCA in Bar Harbor, Maine. Today he sets out to climb Mt. Katahdin, which is the tallest peak in that state at 1606 meters (5270 ft). He'll follow that up with a climb up Mt. Washington (1917 m/6288 ft) in New Hampshire tomorrow and Mt. Mansfield (1340 m/4395 ft) in Vermont on Thursday. He'll also cap the week with a stop off at Polartec Headquarters in Lawrence Massachusetts on Friday.

Jordan has always said that he had hoped to inspire other young people to get outside and explore the world around us in a more active way and it seems that he is doing just that with this tour. He invites anyone who is interested in coming to meet him or join him on his climbs to "like" his Find Your Everest Facebook page where updates and information will be posted on a regular basis. Obviously he'll be making his way around to each of the U.S. states, so keep a close eye out for when Jordan will be appearing in your area.

Seems like a great way for Jordan, who is now 15, to continue to set goals for himself and inspire others. I'll definitely be watching to see when he'll appear in Texas.

A few days ago the National Geographic Adventure Blog posted a story that shared some good tips for recognizing, preventing and treating some of the adverse effects of altitude. Those tips come courtesy of the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS), whose members know a thing or two about dealing with altitude.

The article first discusses the six factors that have a direct affect on whether or not you'll suffer altitude sickness. Those include things like rate of ascent, amount of altitude gained, hydration and so on. It also does a good job of breaking down the various types of altitude sickness including AMS (acute mountain sickness), HAPE (high altitude pulmonary edema) and HACE (high altitude cerebral edema). Symptoms of each are listed as are ways of treating them, although we all know that the best way to address the problem is by going to lower altitude.

Hiking and climbing in the mountains is one of the most rewarding outdoor activities I know, but if you go high enough, anyone can have issues with the altitude. Even if you've safely been there before without any issues you can still experience any of the three types of sickness listed above. Knowing how to recognize those symptoms and address them is an important part of safety in the mountains.

The boys aren't the only ones having fun in Yosemite this summer. Earlier in the week we received the news that Alex Honnold and Hans Florine broke the speed record for The Nose on El Capitan, and now another record has fallen, this time for the ladies.

Climbing.com is reporting that Quinn Brett and Jes Meiris scaled the iconic route on June 11 in 10 hours, 19 minutes. Thats a full 21 minutes faster than the previous record which was set last fall by Libby Sauter and Chantal Astorga. Brett and Meiris launched their climbing collaboration while working together at SOS Outreach, an organization that seeks to mold young people through outdoor adventure. The ladies hope to inspire others, particularly youth, through their efforts.

Congrats to Quinn and Jes on an amazing climb. Well done!

And a tip o' the hat to The Goat for sharing this story.

Another tragic climbing accident occurred this past weekend in France, where Kilian Jornet was attempting to cross the entire Mont Blanc Massif in just two days with partner Stéphane Brosse. The two had already covered a great deal of ground and were on Aiguille d'Argentière when a snow cornice broke, sending Stéphane falling 600 meters (1968 ft) to his death while his friend and a film crew looked on.

The expedition was part of Kilian's Summits of My Life project, which I told you about just a few weeks back. That ambitious four-year adventure is meant to put Kilian, who is one of the top endurance athletes and climbers in the world, on some of the most iconic peaks on the planet. Mont Blanc plays a pivotal role in those plans.

According to the story from Kairn.com, Stéphane was just 41 years old and is survived by his wife and two young children. The couple were expecting their third child soon as well.

Once again, my sincere condolences to friends and family in this very sad time.

Thanks to Louis-Philippe Loncke for sharing the sad news.

Newsflash: This Alex Honnold kid just might be a pretty good climber.

Yesterday, Honnold teamed up with Hans Florine, another very talented climber, to go after a new speed record on the Nose, the most famous climbing route up Yosemite's El Capitan. The duo managed to complete the climb in just 2 hours, 23 minutes and 51 seconds, shaving nearly 13 minutes off the old record set by Dean Potter and Sean Leary back in 2010.

According to this story from Examiner.com, the two men did a few warm-up climbs last week to scout out the route and get accustomed to working with one another. With that work out of the way they elected to make their attempt yesterday, which also happened to be Florine's birthday. The results were nothing short of spectacular. It's going to be hard for another team to cut more time off the route in the immediate future, although we all know someone will be trying.

Honnold continues to make Yosemite his personal playground. Less than a month ago he teamed up with Tommy Cladwell to complete a free climb of Mt. Watkins, El Cap and Half Dome back-to-back-to-back. That feat is known as the Triple Crown. Not satisfied with that effort, Honnold returned a couple of weeks later and re-climbed the Triple Crown, this time solo. Now he's added a speed record on The Nose to his already impressive resume. All I can say is "wow!"

Thanks to the Adventure Journal for the tip!